HOW TO MAKE A SOLID MARACUJA CONDITIONER BAR WITH EMULSENSE HC

Timi Racz Author

Make a maracuja conditioner bar with Emulsense™ HC. A solid, eco-friendly formula that smooths, detangles, and nourishes hair.

If you have made shampoo bars, the natural next step is a conditioner bar. While shampoo cleanses, conditioner restores softness, smooths the cuticle, and makes hair manageable again. This maracuja oil conditioner bar is designed to detangle, reduce frizz, and leave hair feeling nourished, all in a solid, plastic-free format.

ABOUT THE FORMULA

Why a conditioner needs cationics

Conditioners aren’t just about adding oils; they rely on cationic surfactants. These are positively charged ingredients that are attracted to the negatively charged surface of hair. When they bind, they:

• Smooth and flatten raised cuticles.
• Reduce static and frizz.
• Improve slip and combability.

Without a cationic surfactant, a conditioner won’t really condition.

Why I used Emulsense™ HC

In this formulation, I used Emulsense™ HC, a naturally derived cationic surfactant. Unlike BTMS (a common but synthetic option), Emulsense is plant-based and EcoCert approved. It has a lower pH, so the formula works best between pH 4.0–4.5.

💡 Formulator tip: On your first trial batch, test performance as-is. On the second batch, check pH and adjust if needed. If you must raise pH, use arginine only, as Emulsense doesn’t work well with other bases.

THE FORMULA

HOW TO USE

• After shampooing, wet the conditioner bar under warm water.
• Glide the bar along the lengths of your hair, focusing on mid-lengths to ends.
• Leave for 2–3 minutes to allow conditioning actives to work.
• Rinse thoroughly.

INGREDIENT BREAKDOWN

• Emulsense™ HC (Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate & Brassica Alcohol): Plant-based cationic surfactant. Smooths, detangles, and conditions at acidic pH.
• Xyliance® (Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides & Cetearyl Alcohol): Emulsifier that structures the bar and ensures good rinse-off.
• Maracuja oil: Lightweight moisturising oil, helps soften and nourish hair without heaviness.
• Dicaprylyl carbonate: Adds slip and a velvety after-feel, balances richer oils.
• Essential oils: Provide fragrance and help mask the natural scent of Emulsense™ HC.

INGREDIENT SOURCES

• Emulsense™ HC – INCI: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (and) Brassica Alcohol
• Dicaprylyl carbonate – INCI: Dicaprylyl carbonate
• Xyliance® – INCI: Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

This maracuja conditioner bar is a great example of how to pair conditioning actives with lightweight emollients to create a balanced, eco-friendly haircare product. With Emulsense™ HC, you’re working with a natural alternative to BTMS. It requires a little pH management, but the results are worth it.

If you make this formula, I’d love to see your creations. Tag Formulator Hub on social media. And if you want to go deeper into haircare formulation science, you’ll find step-by-step solid bar training in our Formulator Hub courses.

Categories: : Formulations